Finnhamn is one of countless small islands scattered off the coast of Stockholm. The so-called Stockholm archipelago area has long been a draw for hordes of holidaymakers looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of the Swedish capital.
The tiny idyllic island of Finnhamn is located on the outer reach of the archipelago, on the edge of the Baltic sea to the east of Stockholm. Its remoteness is definitely its allure, especially after the harsh Swedish winter recedes and gives way to the warmth of summer.
We were lucky to visit this charming and beautiful small island on a weekend getaway with a glorious summer weather. A surprisingly pleasant Swedish mini adventure.
Getting there:
The only way to reach Finnhamn is by boat service from Stockholm. Waxholmsbolaget runs the regular public transport boats and operates daily services to hundreds of destinations in the Stockholm archipelago, including Finnhamn. From Stockholm, most boats to Finnhamn departs from Strömkajen dock close to the city center.
The boats schedule can be checked in its website. Note that the boats going to the outer reaches of the archipelago such as Finnhamn can be sporadic, so it is best to plan in advance. The ticket can be purchased directly from the ticket office at the dock.
Once at Finnhamn, the only way of getting around this tiny island is on foot through the various footpaths found on the entire island. Being such a small and remote island, the only accommodation available is the solitary youth hostel in the island, which not only offers dorm rooms, but also private cabins in the woods and a camping site nearby.
Around Finnhamn
On a bright August summer day in Stockholm, we headed early morning to the Strömkajen dock to catch the boat departing for Finnhamn. Upon purchasing the ticket, we boarded the medium sized ferry together with dozens other people. We had to transfer in Vaxholm, a rather busy port which seemed to be one of the main ferry hubs in the archipelago.
With cool sea breeze on our face, we sailed further away from the city. The ferry ride through the archipelago was very scenic where clear blue sea and sky sandwiched the low lying green forest on the islands on the horizon all around.
Upon arrival, the boat docked at the small pier on eastern end of the island of Finnhamn. Only a small wooden sign by the pier gave clue to the name of our disembarkation place.
A small mini market could be found by the dock, selling assortment of essential goods as well as some local delicacy. We do recommend to bring food from Stockholm as the options are rather limited in this local shop.
Passing the mini market, we walked further to the youth hostel to get the key to the cabin that we had reserved. It is recommended to book the accommodation in advance since there were only a limited number of beds and cabins available.
The cabins and camping site nearby were located on the other end of the island. The path leading there crossed almost the entire island, giving us the perfect impression of the place to be explored later.
The small yet charming red-painted wooden cabin was perfectly situated among the trees and other similar cabins in a corner of the island. The facility was rather basic, where the water had to be tapped from a groundwater hand pump. Nevertheless, it was perfect place for spending a night on a secluded Swedish island.
Exploring the island
From the cabin, we promptly headed to a small beach area in the middle part of the island, facing a small inlet sea. There we rented a rowing boat to explore the calm inlet. There were also other alternatives available, such as canoes and SUP boards (stand up paddling).
Two small rocky islands sit in the middle of the inlet, which we aimed to reach with the boat. The calm, windless weather of the day made our journey rather easy. About a dozen other people were also there enjoying a sunny day with water activities.
We spent quite some time there relaxing on the rock under the bright sun, taking occasional swim in the cold water of the Baltic sea. Such a pleasant day by the sea, although the water was a bit too chilly for our liking.
Fresh from the sea, we started to explore the further reaches of the island on foot. Numerous small trails branched out from the main path which took us to many different secluded parts and coastal areas of the island.
These trails were not very long considering the size of the island. They invariably went through the forest, bushes, and tall grass before ending at the edge of the island at the coast. Some ending up at a beach, some at a sea cliff.
From some places we could get a clear view over the surrounding islands in the distance, small and large. And from others we were greeted by a small pretty bay. Picturesque spots littered the whole island. As the sun went down, the view of the orange sky in this corner of Sweden was truly memorable. A day well spent, wrapped with a night in a cabin in the woods.
The next day, we headed back to the dock to return to Stockholm. As we casually walked down the by now familiar path, I caught a glimpse of a black snake crossing the path hastily. Goodness me, luckily I only saw it before I was about to leave. Imagine walking through the bushes and tall grass knowing that snakes inhabit the island.
Well, I was just happy to be back at the dock as we waited for the next boat service to bring us back to the crowded city. Our time in Finnhamn gifted us a memorable and unique Swedish experience right at Stockholm’s doorstep.