Cappadocia is a region in central Turkey that is famous for its beautiful moon-like terrain, weirdly-shaped rock formations dubbed as ‘fairy chimneys’, houses that are carved into the solid rock, and of course the epic hot-air balloon ride over the truly unique landscape.

We had the opportunity to visit this wonderful area in the middle of winter, where night time temperature regularly plummeted to well below freezing. However, it didn’t stop us from making the most of this short but unforgettable three days trip.

Check out also our trip to Pamukkale in Turkey to marvel at its magical ‘cotton castle’.

Balloon flight at dawn, Cappadocia
Just another dawn in Cappadocia

Getting there:

We took the flight from Istanbul to Kayseri (ASR), where we rented a car directly from the airport. We then drove to Goreme, one of the most popular towns in Cappadocia, which took about 60-90 minutes. Another alternative would be to fly to the smaller airport of Nevsehir (NAV) and drive from there. This airport is closer to the Cappadocia main area, but flights are less frequent.

For the more adventurous souls, overnight bus trip from Istanbul is an option. As I had also experienced, bus travel in Turkey is very convenient. Buses are modern and have very comfortable and spacious seats, sometimes with plane-style entertainment system. However, it takes about 12 hours or more from Istanbul.

Renting a car would be the best option for traveling around. It offers the ultimate flexibility to explore Cappadocia since the sites are spread over a relatively large area. There are public buses available, but the schedule is infrequent and often unreliable. Another option would be to take organized tours to the different sites offered by many agencies in the area, which can also be booked via your accommodation.

Day 1: Goreme, Ihlara valley, Selime, Derinkuyu underground city, and Uchisar

We chose Goreme as our base for this trip around Cappadocia since it is the most popular town and it is centrally located in the area. We stayed in Vineyard Cave Hotel, which as the name suggests, is built in a small cave that is carved directly into the rock.

The place was amazing, serving full Turkish breakfast and has a very kind and helpful owner, Osman. In addition, there are traditional costumes available in the attic of the hotel that can be worn for photo opportunities.

Traditional costume at Vineyard Cave Hotel, Goreme
Exotic Turkish costumes
Turkish breakfast at Vineyard Cave Hotel, Goreme
Morning view from Vineyard Cave Hotel

We were meant to take the hot air balloon tour on our first day, which we had reserved in advance via Osman. There was a knock on our door well before dawn, when it was still dark. We got picked up by the balloon tour operator to their office for some administration. We were then brought to where the balloon would take off.

There must’ve been dozens of gigantic hot air balloon around, still deflated, waiting to float freely to the sky above. However, this time the flight was not allowed to proceed due to unfavorable weather. Bummer!

We then headed back to our lodging, where we immediately asked Osman to book us for another flight the next day with Turkiye Balloons, which he fortunately succeeded.

For this very reason, it is highly advisable for travelers to spend at least a couple of days in Cappadocia, in case the weather does not permit balloon flight on the first try. During our three days stay, only one morning flight and one afternoon flight took place.

Ihlara valley

We then started exploring the area and our first destination was Ihlara valley, which is located to the southwest of Goreme, about 1.5 hour drive away. It is located directly next to its namesake town of Ihlara. The whole length of Ihlara valley itself is about 16 kilometers, but the most famous stretch from Ihlara to Selime is about 10 kilometers and can be walked in its entirety.

We ourselves did not walk the whole stretch due to the biting winter cold, but nevertheless we gave it a try to walk for a couple of kilometers. Arriving in the spacious town square of Ihlara, we parked our car before looking for the entrance to the valley floor.

The starting point for the route going down to the valley floor from the town of Ihlara was not marked. Fortunately, the local people are very helpful when we asked about it.

Although the town above was free of snow under the intense winter sun, it was a truly winter wonderland down in the valley floor. The lack of direct sunlight had helped preserved the snow. The rushing sound of the river echoed in the valley, creating a wonderful atmosphere for a nice short walk.

Throughout the Ihlara valley there are dozens of old churches and monasteries carved into the rocky wall as historically this area was a sanctuary for the first Christians fleeing persecution from the Roman soldiers. We visited one of the biggest and most famous of them in the nearby town of Selime.

Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia
Descending into Ihlara Valley
Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia
Pretty view from within the valley
In the Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia
Winter wonderland at the valley floor
In the Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia
Trail next to the icy river

Selime and its cave monastery

The town of Selime and its large cave monastery complex is located north of Ihlara, at the northern end of the Ihalara valley. The monastery complex is carved into the sloping rocky wall dotted with numerous cone-like structures, as if each one represents a house.

To enter the monastery complex itself, the visitors must pay a small entrance fee. It’s quite a climb to get to the ‘cone houses’, but this unique monastery was definitely worth the climb. We could also get a view of the surrounding landscape.

We could visit the small ‘rooms’ carved into the rocky cones. There was even a decent-sized church complete with pillars and an altar, all of which was cut into the solid rock by hand. Such was the dedication and ingenuity of the devotees in the old days.

An even more impressive feat was that these people who inhabited the Cappadocia even built underground cities throughout the area, like the one in Derinkuyu that we visited afterwards

Selime Monastery from below
Each hole is a ‘room’
View from Selime Cave Monastery
Selime monastery complex
View from Selime Monastery
Weird rock formations seen from Selime monastery
House in Selime Monastery
A room or a house?
Chapel at Selime Cave Monastery
The beautifully preserved cave chapel in the monastery

Derinkuyu underground city

The whole area of Cappadocia is littered with dozens if not hundreds of underground cities. The largest that is ever found and excavated is the one in Derinkuyu, south of Goreme.

As if a standard underground city is not impressive enough, this one has multi level and reached down to 60 meters deep, with various facilities to allow normal way of living for the people in it.

The town of Derinkuyu itself is quite lively, with a big town square with many souvenir shops despite the lack of tourist in the winter season. The building that houses the entrance to the underground city is located nearby and it’s impossible to miss with the large sign on it.

Descending into the underground city is definitely not for the claustrophobic. The stairways were super narrow and the ceiling was so low that we had to crouch to get through. Mind you, we are not even that tall.

The rooms are quite spacious though, including a chapel and a school. Well, the scariest one must’ve been the small tunnel leading to the grave that we did not even dare to venture into.

We later learned that these underground cities had been used throughout the centuries by the people in Cappadocia to avoid various wars and persecutions. Situations that unfortunately sound too familiar even today. Humanity have not changed that much all these times I guess.

Small tunnel in Derinkuyu Underground City
Mind your head
Small tunnel in Derinkuyu Underground City
Not for the claustrophobic
Grave in Derinkuyu Underground City
I dare you to enter the abyss

Uchisar castle

Before returning to Goreme, we made a stop at Uchisar castle. It is located in the namesake town of Uchisar, just a stone throw away from Goreme. This so-called castle is actually a large chunk of rock mount sitting on a high ground which was carved to create passageways and rooms within it.

It is no longer inhabited and its interior is mostly off limits now. However, this castle can still be visited, and the view from its top is definitely worth your ascend.

A lone Turkish flag stood tall on the top of the castle, presenting a breathtaking view of the surrounding Cappadocia area. The moon-like landscape, partially covered in winter snow, was such a wonder to behold with a snow-capped 3000+ meters peak of Hasandagi mountain visible in the distance.

View from Uchisar Castle
Surreal landscape seen from Uchisar castle
View from Uchisar Castle
Like being on the moon
View from Uchisar Castle
Not bad for a view
Town of Uchisar from Uchisar Castle
Town of Uchisar seen from the castle

Sunset at Rose Valley, Goreme

To wrap up our first day in this wonderful region, we went to the Rose Valley on the outskirt of Goreme to wait for the sunset. Just as any other place in Cappadocia, Rose Valley also bears the moon-like rocky landscape.

For some reason, this area is popularly called as the sunset viewing point. I remember Osman also expressed his confusion as to why this particular spot is known as such, because there are also many other great places to view the sunset.

My guess would be because visitors can climb up to its rather spacious high vantage point and wait as the sun hides behind the rocky hill in the distance. This place was also popular among people doing more adventurous activities, such as off road quad-biking or motor-biking and horse riding.

While we waited for sundown, hordes of other people also started gathering in the same place for the dusk. Sitting on a rock, next to a worn-out Turkish flag and among the noise of dozens other travelers, we calmly enjoyed the slowly setting sun to welcome the cold Cappadocian winter night.

Rocks at Rose Valley, Goreme, Cappadocia
Towering rocks guarding the Rose valley
Sunset at Rose Valley, Goreme, Cappadocia
More like golden, rather than rose
Sunset at Rose Valley, Goreme, Cappadocia
The flag that has seen countless sunsets
Sunset at Rose Valley, Goreme, Cappadocia
Enjoying nice sunset view

Day 2: Hot air balloon ride, Love valley, Pasaba valley, Rose valley

After our first attempt was spoiled by the unfavorable weather, it was time to try the hot air balloon ride again. There came the knock on our door again well before dawn and we followed the same ritual again as the first day, before being transported to the balloon take off point.

The clear sky and calm wind brought a good sign. This time, when we arrived to where the balloons were, we saw dozens of other balloons already airborne. Yayyy! The flight would happen!

Still before sunrise, under the purple-pinkish sky, we were observing the balloon masters started inflating the balloon, first with a giant fan, followed by the burning hot flame. There must’ve been at least another half a dozen balloons just in our vicinity. Slowly but sure, the balloons started rising, one by one, with only a bunch of ropes tethering it to the ground.

We were gathered with about a dozen other people who would be in the same balloon, and after some brief safety instructions by the balloon pilot, in the basket we went, full of excitement and anticipation of the ride.

First with a fan…
Preparation for Balloon flight, Cappadocia
…then comes the flame
Balloon flight at dawn, Cappadocia
Ready to float

Hot air balloon ride by Turkiye Balloons

Off to the open sky we flew! We started rising steadily, brought up only by the warm air encased by the gigantic balloon above us. Still at lower altitude, the pilot masterfully guided us, suspended in the air, through the valleys of Cappadocia.

The sight of dozens of other balloons was really magical, like in a true fairy tale. Balloons of all colors, well, of countless balloon operators to be exact, dotted the morning sky above Cappadocia, gracefully floating over the landscape.

Balloon flight at dawn, Cappadocia
Time to take flight
Ballons dotting the sky, Cappadocia
Dozens of balloons all around us

After some time gliding at lower altitude, it was time for things to get real. The pilot cranked up the flame, and up we went! We must’ve flown to over a couple hundred meters above the ground. It was definitely not for the faint hearted or those suffering from vertigo.

Looking down really made my stomach sink and my legs shake. Honestly, it was super daunting and I couldn’t help imagining the worst. I mean, we were only held up there by the simple physics of hot air being lighter than the cold air. Add to that the open flame that burned agonizingly close to the balloon’s shell itself.

Well, fortunately we were in the good hands of our pilot from Turkiye Balloons, who sometimes cracked borderline appropriate jokes about the balloon going down. I actually felt safe throughout to be able to marvel at the unique Cappadocian landscape below and the balloon-littered blue sky around us.

At the end of the ride, we slowly descended as the pilot vented out the hot air through the top end of the balloon. Soon, we were approaching an open field where a pick-up car and a van had been waiting. Eventually, our balloon’s basket smoothly landed on the back of the car.

Upon landing, we were welcomed with a glass of fizzy wine or grape juice as the non-alcoholic option. We all then did our toast together for a wonderful, memorable, and, most importantly, safe flight.

Surreal Cappadocian landscape seen from hot air balloon
Surreal landscape below
View from hot air balloon, Cappadocia
Balloons on the moon?
Crews from Turkiye Balloon
Big thanks to the pilots from Turkiye Balloons

Love valley

After our memorable balloon ride, we got transported back to our hotel. Time to continue our journey a bit more down to earth, literally. Just slightly north west of Goreme, we arrived at Love valley, or Aşıklar vadisi in Turkish.

We headed through a small dirt road to a panoramic view point over the valley. There are not many things there apart from a small deserted kiosk, probably closed during winter.

The view over the valley was quite scenic. Just as in other sites we’ve encountered in Cappadocia, strange rock formation littered the landscape. As to why this place is named the Love valley, I’d leave that up to your own judgement and imagination.

View over Love valley, Cappadocia
Weird view over Love valley
Towering rock at Love valley, Cappadocia
Still wondering why it’s called Love valley?

Pasaba valley

After spending a brief time at the Love valley, we continued further to another location nearby. Passing through the town of Çavuşin, we reached Pasaba valley. In contrast to the Love valley, this place is bustling with visitors and tourists. Plenty of souvenir shops, cafes, and restaurants line the area.

This valley also boasts myriads of strange rock formation, fairy chimneys, and scenic view over the landscape from some of the higher grounds. The rocks all over the valley were also carved and were inhabited long time ago. The area can be explored on foot to discover some of the great panoramic spots.

Some of the view over the distance really seemed to transport you to the moon or another distant planet. It would not be so strange after all to suddenly see a giant space ship arriving here.

Rock houses at Pasaba valley, Cappadocia
Old cave houses at Pasaba valley
Rock houses at Pasaba valley, Cappadocia
Fairy chimneys all over
View over Pasaba valley, Cappadocia
Pasaba valley or another planet?
Strange rocks at Pasaba valley, Cappadocia
Mushrooming rocks everywhere
View from somewhere near Pasaba valley, Cappadocia
Wonderful view in the area

Around the Rose valley

We decided to revisit the Rose valley where we watched the sunset the day before. We wanted to explore this area in broad daylight as there was a trail leading from the sunset viewing point to deeper into the valley.

When we arrived in afternoon, we were unexpectedly treated to the view of sky with balloons. The balloons were more sporadic than in the morning, but it was still wonderful nevertheless, providing us plenty of photo opportunities from the ground.

We then ventured further into the Rose valley for a short walk. The easy path took us to the middle part of the valley, where towering strange rock formation surrounded us. It was definitely a worthwhile trip that we could recommend.

Hot air balloon seen from Rose valley, Cappadocia
Please accept this gift
Hot air balloon seen from Rose valley, Cappadocia
Afternoon balloon ride
Walking through Rose valley, Cappadocia
In the heart of Rose valley

Day 3: Devrent valley

Our last day in this magical region was a short one. Before heading back to Kayseri, we made one last stop at the Devrent (imaginary) valley. This valley is best known for its one camel fairy chimney rock formation. I guess that is where the valley name imaginary comes from.

The camel was indeed unique and surprisingly really resembled a sitting camel. However, the highlight of this place for me is the surrounding landscape, which can be hiked too. Walking among the giant rock and boulders while enjoying wonderful moon-like view was something I thoroughly enjoyed.

The visit to this valley concluded our Cappadocian road trip. We then started driving back to Kayseri, still in awe by the weird rock formation all around. At least after this trip, I can convincingly tell other people that I know how moon or other planet might look like.

Camel rock at Devrent valley, Cappadocia
Riding the camel
View over Devrent valley, Cappadocia
Rock boulders at Devrent valley
View over Devrent valley, Cappadocia
Amazing view over the valley
View over Devrent valley, Cappadocia
Another picturesque view

Extra tip: Hammam at Urgup city baths

One of the absolute highlights of our visit to Cappadocia was the Hammam experience at Urgup city baths (Ürgüp Şehir Hamamı), which is located in the center of Urgup.

For the unfamiliar, Hammam is an authentic Turkish public bath or bathing ritual stemming from the time of Ottoman empire. In modern times, its popularity has spread worldwide. In Turkey itself, you can find Hammam of different quality and price, ranging from the antique and very traditional to the modern and classy.

On one cold night, we decided to visit the Hammam in Urgup based on the recommendation from Osman, the owner of the hotel where we stayed in Goreme.

This Hammam in Urgup can be categorized as the more traditional type, and at the time, for only about 40 Turkish Lira we could get the full heavenly Hammam treatment and massage.

The Hammam ritual in Urgup itself was quite straightforward. Wrapped only in a piece of cloth, we were made to lie down on a large heated marble slab in the middle of the bathing area. We were supposed to sweat profusely for almost half an hour. Then, after a brief wash, came the massaging part.

It was a bit daunting in the beginning to have two large bare chested Turkish man with thick mustache massaging the both of us. However, I have to admit it was the best I’ve ever had, especially when they poured the smooth silky bubbly foam all over us. Heavenly! Trust me, this Hammam was way better than the more touristy and more expensive Hammam we visited in Istanbul.

After the relaxing Hammam ritual, we felt rejuvenated and more ready than ever to brace the cold Cappadocian night out there.

About Author

Born and raised in Indonesia, bitten by the travel bug since moving to Europe.

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